Travaglini Gattinara DOCG 2015

Travaglini is a family-owned wine estate in the tiny Gattinara appellation within north Italy’s renowned Piemonte region.

Established in the 1920s by Clemente Travaglini, the winery is Gattinara’s most esteemed producer of traditional, limited-production wines from the nebbiolo grape (known locally as “spanna”). The family’s passion for winemaking has not diminished through the generations; Cristina and Cinzia Travaglini, great-granddaughters of Clemente, manage day-to-day operations at winery. Cinzia’s husband Massimo Collauto is chief winemaker, a role he inherited from his late father-in-law and beloved mentor, Giancarlo Travaglini (winemaker at Travaglini for 45 years). Giancarlo’s wife, Lilliana, oversees vineyard operations.

Travaglini wines are easily recognized by their distinctive bottle shape, featuring a unique curve that fits naturally in the palm of the hand and serves to catch sediment during decanting. Designed by a glassmaker to celebrate the excellent 1952 vintage, the bottle was so well received that family decided to keep it as their trademark.

The appellation of Gattinara DOCG represents the historically best, and long-living reputation of wines made from Nebbiolo. Before there was any fame of Barolo and Barbaresco, the wine of Gattinara had already been a subject of export at least since 14th century. 19th saw its decline, but in recent years it’s once again in steady revival, partly caused by its DOCG recognition in 1990.

The name “Gattinara” suggests the area was once a druidic ritual site, when Celtic ruled the area before 3rd century BC, perhaps Taurini and Salassi tribes. Its relatively North location means fruits only consistently ripen on the right slope, and in right soil. Thus even today only around 100 hectares under vines are made into wines with Gattinara labels. Most of the vineyards have soils originating from decomposition of volcanic porphyritic sub-soil. By laws, all vineyards are located on the west bank of Sesia river, altitude between 250m and 550m.

Despite its proximity to the Alps, the hills within the appellation boast the best natural conditions in terms of exposure, altitude and soil mix. These advantage also means Nebbiolo ripen much more consistently than surrounding appellations. Thus the law demands a higher portion of Nebbiolo, if the wine is deemed to be a blend, at 90% at least. (Travaglini always make 100% Nebbiolo Gattinara) And critics generally would treat Gattinara much more serious than its neighbour appellations, like Ghemme DOCG, or Fara DOC, Boca DOC.

Gattinara has the tendency to benefit greatly from long bottle ageing. The wine develops and matures very slowly. If done properly, the wine can develop a silky texture and plenty of pleasant tertiary aroma. Best examples are notoriously long-lived, easily age and improve for 30+ years, rival some best examples of Barolo.

Travaglini’s 2015 vintage Gattinara has delicate scents of violets and cherries with traces of black pepper. The palate is rich and refined, filled with red fruit, spice, raisins and smooth tannins. The acidity is high, but not through the roof. The finish is long-lasting and juicy. By 2024, the wine is very drinkable, but undeniably, there is still decent amount of room for improvement through further ageing.